The main 2 modifications needed to fit an HD/HR front crossmember to an EH is swapping the outrigger (front protrusion) from the EH crossmember & moving the engine mount towers rearwards (about 3-inches) so they sit in the same location as on the EH.

It's not rocket science but a bit of commonsense & welding skill is important, I've seen it botched quite often.

Dr Terry

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Originally posted by Todd64eh
Thanks, is it necessary to change the rear end as well? I heard the HR front end is different to the EH rear end therefore the rear should be swapped too?

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The rear end can stay. All that needs doing to the rear brakes is to fit the smaller 9/16-inch wheel cylinders & brake shoes to match. These will fit straight onto the existing brake backing plates.

If you were fitting the HD/HR disc brakes to an FX-EK it would be then be preferable to fit the later rear end, as the later rear shoes & cylinders will not fit into the earlier model's brakes.

Dr Terry

NO, the other way around.

You find a complete HD/HR ball-joint front end & remove its outrigger & fit the one off your EH front end. The throw away the old HD/HR outrigger.

The fitting of the mount towers is important, they must be fitted in the same position as on your old EH front crossmember, relative to the chassis rail mount points.

Dr Terry

EH sway bar, as it clears the EH outrigger and mounts to the EH chassis rails.

Rare Spares have a change over HR front end available with the mounts and outrigger moved.

If you are a member of one of the EH clubs, another member will usually have jigs to do the conversion for you

Hey Todd I have some here with and without stubs and rotors/calipers, from memory you need the hr draglink also, only problem is I'm in Brissy

I sent you an email mate, cheers

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Originally posted by coupe
Hey Todd I have some here with and without stubs and rotors/calipers, from memory you need the hr draglink also, only problem is I'm in Brissy

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You don't need the HD/HR draglink. Even though it is a better design, it fouls the EH sump on full lock because of its shape. If you mount the engine even further rearwards (you'll need to delete the accelerator cross-shaft) this can be overcome, but there's nothing wrong with stock EH linkage, if it's properly set-up.

Dr Terry

Hey Coupe, I never received that email, would you please try again? [email protected] thanks.

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Originally posted by Dr Terry

quote:

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Originally posted by coupe
Hey Todd I have some here with and without stubs and rotors/calipers, from memory you need the hr draglink also, only problem is I'm in Brissy

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You don't need the HD/HR draglink. Even though it is a better design, it fouls the EH sump on full lock because of its shape. If you mount the engine even further rearwards (you'll need to delete the accelerator cross-shaft) this can be overcome, but there's nothing wrong with stock EH linkage, if it's properly set-up.

Dr Terry

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I have seen many draglinks hit the sump on full lock when a HR front end is fitted to an EH/EJ, it has usually been through incorrect placement of the engine mounts. This can also be attributed by, or exacerbated, by the rear transmission mount being too low.
Accurate positioning of the engine mounts on the HR front end, to replicate the exact position & angle of the original EH mounts, should alleviate the problem of draglink fouling the on the EH sump.
My current EH, fitted with HR frontend including HR draglink, doesn't have this problem. I did take care with mount positions, but only placed them where the original EH would have been using a jig built off the EH frontend. Maybe I was just lucky?

Edited by user Wednesday, 14 November 2012 9:07:16 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Yes, 186 fits with no modifications.