Has anyone any ideas on why back brakes would skid. My HX with rear drums basically one of the rear wheel will lock and skid so its impossible to stop as car just slides. The peddle is very sensative to touch as well. I have had this issue before on simular car years ago and it was the front brakes being seazed meaning only the back were working. In this case the front seem to work when you jack car and test. Slackening off rear brakes does not help.Booster and master were recoed around 2 years ago, not that theat means it cant be that. Any advice would be appreciated.

I agree its unlikly both front brakes would be locked and when i tested them by applying brakes at low speed in gravel both front lock up but only the rh rear works, when you test them individually with car jacked up, all appear to work fine so clearly they all work but the rh rear is stronger or coming on earlier than others. Both rear are clean and dry, i replaced axel seals and pads and slaves a few years ago as the oil had penetrated the pads as you said. I have just done as you said and swapped over hubs but am yet to go for a drive to test. I did have the same problem with a HZ 20 years ago but i cnt remember what i did back then ro resolve.
Thanks for your help.

quote:

---

Originally posted by yarrum308
Wow thats bizzare, heaps better with drums swapped around, still hasnt fixed it but i can pull up now on a normal stop.If i push on brakes pretty hard the rh rear still locks up but.If someone pulls out in front of me im screwed basically.

---

Heaps better for a week until the brake shoes bed in to the different drums.

Brakes allround sound terrible, check or have checked by a professional.

Master cylinder output pressure
Booster (vacuum assist)
Proportioning valve operation (if you have got one)
drums for ovality.
shoe brake material thickness to spec
drum scoring
correct clearence shoe to drum (adjuster)

"CHECK :-RIGHT REAR SHOCK ABSORBER for operation to spec"

Buy the workshop manual and read it, they are generally very good.
Cheers
Balfizar

Clutching at straws here, but are the rear tyres identical side to side?

Are they directional & rotating in the correct direction?

pull the rear handbrake cables off and check they slide easily through. could be one seized and holding the wheel cylinder piston on. also check the pistons slide all the way in and out easily, a sticking piston due to corrosion in the cylinder or wear can cause problems.
if the inner cables don't slide easily soak the whole cable in a bucket of kero for couple of days, seeing as you have it off anyway. then hand operate sliding the inner cable through lots of times to get it smooth and easy.

Thanks everyone for those ideas, I will try all that on the weekend and let you know the outcome. It does have matching tyres side to side, not directional. Open centre diff and shoes are correct way around. I put a different proportioning valve in it(second hand out of a HJ tonner) mine is a style side ute as I know sedans have different brake points. Anyway it is better and brakes well until you hit hard in an emergency stop, rear right still locks first.

Thanks for your suttle sarcasm, now in fairness to me let it be known I am a fair dinkum aussie holden nut from way back and i must agree it is a stupid description but i seem to have adopted it over the last few years due to stupidity of others to save confusion. Since the 70,s when i was a just a wee boy it was either a tonner or a ute but lately every one on line gets confused when you say ute, they then ask is it a tray back, no its a friggin ute if it was a tray back i would have said so, so i only stated styleside to avoid confusion is this modern age. I now understand i was wrong and I hereby remove my statement and vow never to use that dreaded word again so anyone reading this please replace that awful word with "ute" and please accept my deepest appolgies.

others are
breaks just bad spelling
wreaking -wtf is that?

i tend to use well body for what has been called styleside. as some tonners don't have a tray but have sides.

Yeah all in good fun HGV8 , if we cant have a laugh whats the point I wreckin, pardon my bad spelling there. On that subject I do get a laugh out of ebay adds on a regular occasion. Im glad its not just me. Back to the brakes, I did have drums machined when I put new pads in but you cant trust anyone so maybe they stuffed em up. thanks to all feedback I do have a lot of things to check on weekend. I clamped off rear brakes last weekend to see what happened then out of curiosity. Pedal was very hard of course then front wheels would skid once I applied enough pressure.

Brake update,
Booster tests fine put Car on stands,pulling handbrake on slow rh rear wheel locked about 3 clicks before lh. Pulled handbrake cables off and they work freely. Checked drums for roundness. The rh one is possibly up to .25mm out of shape. Operated brakes with out hubs on and both cylinders are working fine. Adjusted brakes again and fitted handbrake loosely. Tested again and both stoped at same time, went for drive and seemed to work perfect. Adjusted handbrake up till it only engaged on last click went for drive and back brakes seem to lock again in an emergency stop.
Overall brakes are damn good and very touchy, it seems like both rear are locking in an emergency stop now as car does not slide sideways. Testing in gravel all brakes work at same time but clearly the back ones are too strong for the front. It appears handbrake is the issue as when it was slack it was fine but adjusted up to work properly it must be pulling brakes up to tight or proportioning valve is sending too much fluid to rear in an emergency stop as they work really well until then. There seems to be a point where you just push peddle a tiny bit too much and all of a sudden back brakes lock and wheels slide. Overall its safe to drive now and I may just send my original proportioning valve off to be recoed then refit it as changing it seemed to make the biggest difference.